Renu Govil
Indian Express; 1998

Once considered too close to the Indo- Tibetan border, Sangla Valley has been opened up only recently. Which is why one is caught unawares by its old-world charm, untouched by modern civilization. If are tired of the same old hill stations, the crowds in the mall and tired of old ponies, here's a place that promises to be off the beaten track. The Banjara Camp tucked deep into the Sangla Valley about 200km beyond Shimla, is the perfect summer getaway, with only the sound of the wind in the Valley and river gurgling through the cool forests of pine and deodar for company. During the day you can feast your eyes on tall stately snow-capped mountains and wide-open fields. In the night a canopy of star-studded sky stretches overhead as you nestle by a cracking bonfire.

Take along lazy walks in the apple orchards or through the pristine mountains forests followed by mouth-watering meals on your return. And if you are not willing to forego all your city comforts, don't worry- you can get yourself pampered with hot water baths and clean laundry washed in washing machines.

We meet our host at the edge of the Camp- the soft spoken ex-Captain Ajay Sood in his trademark red windcheater and his genial business partner Rajesh Ojha. Later that evening as we warm ourselves beside the bright bonfire they inform us that Sangla valley had been opened up only couple of years ago since it was too close to the Indo-Tibetan border. Which is why it has retained its aura of pristine beauty. It's a beautiful night and we are eager to start exploring, but the long drive - almost nine hours - from Shimla via Narkanda and Rampur has tired us out.

It is unbelievably refreshing when we wake up the next morning. Warmed with cups of hot coffee, we look out of the window at the panoramic view unfolding before our eyes. You can relax in the hammocks tied strategically beside the clear, cool and inviting Sangla (or Baspa) river. There is a volleyball court for those who want to sweat it out, and later we play football and badminton as well. Or you can go for a ramble through the picture-postcard perfect scenery. As far as the eyes can see, we are surrounded by unspoilt beauty. As we around the camp for the time being, we are served fresh bread and cakes from the camp's own bakery.

Later we decide to explore the nearby places. We walk through the mountain forests with only the sounds of our feet crushing the fallen leaves and the wind sighing in the trees playing in our ears. About 2 kms from the camp we come across tiny glaciers formed by the melted snow. Soon we reach the Batseri Village, covered in fine mist early in the morning. We visit the local temple, and drink steaming cups of tea at the "dhabha"� while talking with the locals.

Next morning we drive to the quaint village of Chitkul, the last outpost on the old Indo-Tibetan trade route situated at an altitude of almost 11,000 ft. Chitkul has a barely population of 500 people. On the way back, we stop at the Kamru Fort, the home of the royal family. The fort rises splendidly from the rugged sides of the mountain. We take some "bhojpatra"- the bark of a tree that was used as writing paper in ancient times, to take back as a souvenir. We also visit a temple and monastery here. Time seems to have come at a standstill, as nothing has changed here for centuries.

We take our longest trip the next day-to Kalpa, about 53kms from the camp. We cross the district headquarters Reckong Peo of Kinnaur, a bustling township. We then drive for miles through "Chilgoza" (a kind of dry fruit) forests, with breathtaking view of the majestic snow-capped ranges of the mighty Kinner-Kailash alongside.