Purbi Sridhar
Discover India; 28th April 2000

Far, far from the madding crowd, tucked away in the folds of the Himalayas, in the northern most region of Himachal Pradesh, lies Sangla Valley. It is place where civilization with all its materialistic trapping is yet to make an inroad. A place where the only sounds are the rustling of trees, the gushing of rivers, and undecipherable chatters in the forest. A place that was closed to travelers till 1992. A place whose manifold charms are being discovered only now.

For early six months every year the Himalayan Valleys of Kinnaur are lost to the world at large when heavy snows render the region out of reach. And for the rest of the year, as if to make up for its enforced seclusion, it unfolds all that is simply awe-inspiring in nature. When frozen glaciers melt and rivers hurl through as if making up for lost time. When nature is at her natural best-luscious greens, torrential rivers, craggy fold of the Himalayas, snow capped peaks within almost hand-reaching distance and challenging heights. And air so pure that even breathing becomes pleasure.

Sangla, 589 kilometres from Delhi and 230 kilometres from the former summer capital of Britishers, Shimla, is a valley that spreads over 42 km at a height of 2700 metres. Incidentally it is only 30 kms from the Tibetan border. A little north of Sangla around 20 kms away lies Chitkul, and travelers are not allowed beyond the border post. Sangla lies on the banks of Baspa river that runs nearly 900 metres deep in some places. The gushing of the river forms the rhythmic background to Sangla as do the benign gaze of the Kinnaur Kailash range of the Himalayas. In fact Mount Kailash, said to be the abode of Hindu God Shiva, is not too far away. Not surprising therefore that the locals-the kinnauris-are said to be the descendants of Kinners, demi-gods in the Hindu pantheon. The claim goes that some families can actually trace their lineage back to the Pandavas of the Hindu epic, the Mahabharta.

The name Sangla itself is engulfd in romantic lore. Sang is said to mean 'Light' and la of course means 'pass' in the Tibetan language. In other words it is the 'pass of light'. The local story is that if while crossing the rather imposing surrounding mountains, you suddenly come across this valley ablaze with sunshine and bursting at the seams with natural beauty, you would naturally go into ecstasies. Hence Sangla.

The journey to Sangla Valley becomes itself an adventure. From Rampur upwards the road narrows down at times into difficult terrain up virtual steeps while the Baspa river forms a turbulent companion through most of the route. The road winds, at times, through some literally challenging heights with the towering cliffs one side and the plunging depths into the Baspa river on the other. Times when God is on call.

And then you are in Sangla-the town where a handful of houses nestle together presided over by the local deity housed in a typical-of 'Himachal Pradesh wooden temple. Drive through it, leaving the little civilization behind, and about 4 to 5 kilometres ahead, Sangla Valley unfolds like an untouched painting by the Gods. Nestled at the foothills of the Himalayas with the Baspa river meandering through it the valley has all the elements of nature unifying into a harmonious whole. It is as if after saying 'open sesame!' the mountains unlock a secret doorway ushering one into what can be called celebration of nature. Where towering mountains and raging river, where dense forests and ever changing skies come together to bedazzle your senses.

Plush concrete hotels and glitzy tourist attractions are, thankfully, yet to make their appearance in the Sangla Valley. A handful of basic so called hotels can be found either at Sangla town or at the approach to Chitkul. What Sangla valley has to offer, however, are the delightful Banjara Camps. Run by the enterprising duo of Rajesh Ojha and Ajay Sud, the camps are individual swiss style luxury tents strong enough to withstand the vagarie of nature. The tents come complete with attached bathrooms and, for some, dressing rooms too! The Banjara Camps fits into Sangla Valley unobtrusively, situated as it is amid apple orchards adjoining the quaint and typically kinnauri village Batseri with the Baspa river flowing right next to it.

And if there are mountainous streams can tout fishing be far behind? One of the greatest pleasure of Sangla Valley and Banjara Camps is trout fishing. The Baspa river in Sangla Valley is home to the Rainbow and Brown trouts. To first timers the idea of any fish appearing from the water rushing over the boulder beds might seem incongruous. But once bitten the whole exercise can become addictive. For those still disbelieving of the entire fishy business there is a river crossing., albeit with expert guidance.When you are so high up in the mountains and so near to the skies, when you can commune with the God and nature is there reason enough to reach up again for the skies?

But what fills up the scenes in Sangla Valley are the exploratory treks or nature walks into the adjoining forests and villages. It, of course, goes without saying that Sangla is home to some rare herbs and spices including the exotic black cumin seed, flora (Chilgoza orchards besides apples) and fauna and the best cider this side of Suez. Batseri and Rakcham, the two nearby villages, so untouched yet by the outer world, are showcases for uncomplicated lives and lifestyles. The icing on the cake is, however, the glacier point. Across the Baspa river, off Banjara Camps, and through a small forest one is suddenly face to face with a rough, stony river bed like slides down the entire length of one mountain side. During the period when the entire Kinnaur Valley lies hidden behind a thick cloak of snow, this is one of the points where glaciers come hurtling down. The sudden barren streak down the mountainside is a reminder that there are facets of nature yet unfathomable to human minds.

From Sangla Valley a drive to Chitkul, situated at 3450 metres, about 20 kilometres away from the Banjara Camp is a must. The road passes through one of the most scenic routes ever, over streams that do not recognize the boundaries of roads and through forests that gleefully butt into the road. Chitkul is the last village on the Indo-Tibetan trade route and the Tibetan influence makes its present felt. A four kilometer walk and you arrive at Nagasthi , the last Indian outposts. Beyond lie Tibet. Here the mountains turn more craggy, less green and more barren. Here when the sun goes down among the mountains and an all pervading silence swamps you, it is not difficult to believe in the demons and monsters of folklore.

But back to Banjara Camps "Night life" begins around a bonfire. And as the last of the embers die out and the camp settles down behind shut flaps there can be no quarrel with life. Only realization that nature reigns supreme in this Valley of the Gods. And the realization why the Gods chose to settle down here. And you accept that rarely have the paths of God and man crossed each other as in these valleys of the Himalayas.