Radhika Singh
A & M; 31 July 2000

Camping at Banjara's mountain destinations can get your sore soul back to life.

At destinations ranging from 6000 ft to 11000 ft, the Banjara Camps luxury camping experience is as good as it gets, though, for four mounths in a year, the Kinnaur and Spiti valleys where the camps are located are cutoff from the rest of the world, covered in thick snow.

A three-hour train ride from Delhi to Chandigarh, or Kalka, is the start of the trip for those who choose not to drive. It's a pleasant drive up the young Himalayas from Chandigarh, or Kalka, till Narkanda, which at 8100 feet, is the highest point on the highway and popular with winter skiers. From Narkanda, it is downhill to 2700 ft at Rampur or Sarahan (5500ft) where after driving non-stop for nine hours, a stopover for the night is well-advised. Drive off the next morning, after you've got over the shock of seeing millions of stars.

The beauty of meandering along the river Baspa, its forcefulness sometimes disguises behind a gentle demeanour, is a feeling that stays forever. Four hours into the bumpy ride, having crossed three bridges lined with white prayer flags in memory of those who didn't make it across the river, you get the first glimpse of the camp with its 18-odd green and blue striped tents.

After a hot cup of tea and pakoras, under the huge white parachute functioning as a lounge area, you're shown into a swiss-style tent. Bask in the royalty of the bright yellow, red and green Rajasthani bandhini interiors of the 10 x 10 private space with a functional cemented bathroom, luggage area, pretty patch-work quilts, an antique logwood table, two lounge chairs and a globe wicker lamp.

At the Banjara Camp in Sangla valley, the hospitality is warm, not intrusive. For those escaping from city-life, it is paradise, nestled amid snow-capped mountains that you can almost reach out to. An afternoon of rainfall and the Kinner Kailash ranges around are purer than ever, clothed in a fresh coat of snow. The silence is broken only by the sound of the river.

Take a long walk by the river or wander around the quaint Batseri and Rakcham villages. Explore the villages which have wooden houses adorned with carvings and fancy-shaped ironlocks built along little wooded streams. The fresh smell of pine adds to the charm.

About 24 km away is the last border village of Chitkul. A four km flower-lined trek along the river takes you to the border manned by men of the Indo-Tibetan Border Police, sweeping the area with binoculars to spot the occasional ghuspetiya (smuggler/ terrorist). One can trek to Tibet with permission from the district commissioner.

Back at camp, one can cross the river on a rope or just indulge in a game of volleyball or basketball or even chess and carom. A 3-5 day stay is ideal and from there, most travelers make their way further in to the Spiti valley to Kalpa. Looking for a soul-searching experience? Visit the monastery at Tabo. Set amid the barren brown hilly terrain, almost desert-like, it leaves one awed. On the way down, it's a good idea to break journey at Chail, at almost 6000 feet.

A visit to www.banjaracmps.com is a good prelude. So if the adrenaline's pumping and the engine revving - just go for it!