Arun Sood
Hindustan Times; July 1995

The remote Sangla valley is breathtaking in its beauty, writes Arun Sood

Rare are those moments in life when it hurts to go back home. A visit to Sangla Valley provides precisely such an experience.

For most of the tourists, Shimla was the destination this summer. Bur for some of the more discerning ones, looking for some fun and excitement of a different variety, away from the crowded, scarcity-hit hill stations, it was a mid-day stopover.

Secluded in a remote corner of Himachal Pradesh's Kinnaur district, at a height of 2700 m, Sangla Valley was opened to the world as recently as 1992. Till then, because of its proximity to the Indo-China Border, it was out of bounds even for the Indian tourists. So, few people still are discerning enough to savour its bliss.

Access to Sangla Valley has always been difficult. Legend has it that the place is so remote that when heroes of Mahabharat hidden during the last year of their exile, their foes failed to locate them. Much later, the Valley was closed for strategic reasons- Sino Indian border is only about 40 km. away.

Five thousand years later, the place maintains its exclusivity. Its secludedness has infact helped to maintain its beauty and charm. There are no traffic jams, so common a sight in most of the hill stations. No garbage. It is a place where a serene silence drenches you. And so do its sounds.

Those looking for five star comforts or even normal hotel facilities would be in a disappointment in Sangla valley- for there are hardly any hotels/restaurants worth the name. In fact this is partly what makes the place what it is an island of tranquility and a magnificent retreat.

There are the woods, lonesome and generation old. Take a walk through them. You will discover a sense of wonder you lost in your childhood: the aroma of the forest, the fallen leaves crackling beneath the feet, the strange blossoms in brilliant colours. And when the wind rustles the leaves, it hums.

There's the tinkle of a clear, cool and winding brook called Baspa. India's best trout swim in its waters. If you stand over smooth, slippery rocks where water collects in a shallow sparkling pool, and if you are lucky, a trout might tickle and glide between your feet. And after such a strenuous exercise, you simply must have a siesta by the side of the brook beneath the mellow sun. You will rediscover what a joy they are.

Deep blue sky. Clean moutain air. Towering snowclad, Zanskar range. Sometimes in summer, lightning flashes and clouds drizzle down upon them. Not infrequently, the sun follows close on the heels of the drizzle and a rainbow stretches across the valley. In the night, lying in a hammock, by the brook and logfire, beneath a full moon and a starry sky, you will discover a sense of unsurpassed awe.

You will also discover heritage. For, Sangla Valley is a crucible brimming with timeless traditions. The principal tribe of this area is the Kinners, who, in Sanskrit Literature have been shown as Yakshas and Gandharvas. Although mainly a pastoral tribe engaged in rearing sheep and goats and raising wool, the Kinners in Sangla valley also do agriculture and horticulture. Most of the households have fruit trees of some kind, but apple dominates. Joint families are the norm. Polyandry still exists and is probably a means to avoid a division of property and fragmentation of already small landholdings in the area. With socio-economic change this practice is on the decline now.

The valley, due to its proximity to Tibet, is the meeting place of Indo-Aryan and Mongoloid races and cultures. Hence, the Mongoloid features of the people. Buddhism and Hinduism are worshipped with equal faith. Buddhism here is a mix of Vajrayana, Tantrikism and Tibetan demonology. Almost every village has a Buddhist temple with a resident Lama. People also believe in Hindu gods like Badrinath and Maheshwar. The temples and monasteries make an interesting study because of their ancient inscriptions and he very fine woodwork which, initially the work of Kashmiri craftsmen, reached a very high standard in the 11th and 12th centuries when most of the important monasteries were built. On important occasions, the locals also seek advice from their 'devta' or presiding deity via oracles.

There is also the bhojpatra a very fine and rare tree bark on which, since time immemorial, sages have written India's cultural heritage, including the Vedas. The locals, though, often use this bark in roofing of their houses owing to its certain qualities. At some places, the lamas write mantras in Tibetan on the bhojpatra and it is then worn by pregnant women as a lucky charm. The area has a distinct tribal tradition of folk dance and songs which have been preserved over the ages. During September 4-8, Sangla celebrates a colourful festival of flowers called Flaich.

The Banjara camp near Sangla village is an ideal retreat for those who want to catch upon their reading or writing. You can loll in a hammock anchored to magnificent sky-kissing chir-pine trees by the river-side or snooze off to the tune of gugling Baspa over your favourite book.

The rustic charm of the camp comes in its full splendour in the evenings. Imagine the cool mountain air, the dipping sun enveloping the snow-clad peaks and its glow washing the colourful Swiss tents and in their midst scattering of comfortably seated guests around a bonfire. The gently music from the dining tent (readhall!) which glides over the sounds of Baspa, provide a perfect ambience for a leisurely evening of conversation and high-spirits. The bar-be-que dinners around the bonfire would be the envy of many a luxury hotels.

For trekkers, the opportunities are limitless. The camp provides trekking equipment, and of course, generous packed lunches. There are easy and short-duration treks like those to Chitkul (a quaint hamlet located on the old Indo-Tibetan trade route), Kamru fort (the ancient throne of the erstwhile rajas of Kinnaur) and even to the scout of a small glacier. One small trek strongly recommended is from village Batseri to Rakcham (about 8 km. apart) through the forest along Baspa. It is absolutely exhilarating. Long duration treks include those to Recong Peo (famous for Chilgoza forests) and Kalpa (which offers a breath-taking view ofMt. Kinner Kailash, the mythical abode of Lord Shiva). The apple orchards and stunningly beautiful panoramic views along the way will keep you occupied with your camera.

The months of August and September are strongly recommended when a lush green carpet with a carefree sprinkling of wild flowers of all imaginable colours and hues spreads across the valley. The mild breeze laden with the fragrance of Kinnauri apples sweeping the valley will force you to take a stroll up to one of the orchards. But don't worry, if you are not such an enthusiastic walker- you can always find an orchard to laze around in.

So, pack your bags this summer for Sangla. Light woolens are necessary. It is a great place for those looking for respite for their city-wearied eyes. Thankfully, it is not yet a "tourist" place. It holds a special charm for the trekkers and the rubber-neckers professionals and amateurs alike. A tryst with Sangla valley holds the promise of a life-long relationship with a world in which romance, mystery and tradition still tiptoe their way around.