Hector D'souza
Times of India, Delhi; 9th May 1999

The days are sunny, the air clear and the apricot trees in full bloom. This is the time to visit Kalpa, says Hector D'souza

Ever heard of Kalpa? Not very likely. It is a small village in the kinnaur valley in eastern Himachal Pradesh, close to the border of Tibet and accessible only during summer, when the apricot trees are in full bloom and saffron fields dot the landscapes. It is not easy getting any kind of information about Kalpa, or find too many people who can tell you about it. So one blistering summer afternoon in early May, having given up all hopes of doing so, we set off with rucksacks, sleeping bags and mountain boots.

"You want to visit Kalpa, we take you there. Perfect roads, perfect climate. Absolutely. No problem." So we were reassured at the Shimla Taxi stand, where at least six taxi drivers tried to dispel our fears and ignorance. Mountain travel, mountain madness and false promises always go hand in hand, so we were soon traveling on unpaved, potholed and even freshly blasted roads.

To reach Kalpa at 2960 metres, we needed to drive past Rampur at 924 metres, Sarahan at 1920 metres and Recong Peo at 2290 metres, making a total distance of 244 kms. There were many attractions en route in the form of the everchanging scenery and night halts at these exotic villages. We would fall asleep in the cradle of green valleys and snow covered mountains and wake up early to the sound of temple bells. We spent a few hours every day exploring the villages, walking past saffron fields and trekking through mountain paths. Our guide was a smart looking village lad in a cowboy hat, eager to talk about life in the mountains.

Finally, on a cool, damp, rainy afternoon, chilled to the bone, we finally arrived at Kalpa, in the heart of the Kinnaur Valley. The valley is better known for its splendid view of the massive 6050 metres-high Kinner Kailash peak. Mount Kailash also has a huge rock lingam of Kailashpati Mahadev that attracts hordes of pilgrims during the summer.

The Kinnaur valley, of which Kalpa was originally the capital, also includes the villages of Recong Peo, Khabo and Nako and is a land filled with folklore, legends and superstitions. One legend has it that the inhabitants of this land, the Kinners, were half-human and half-bird. Another has it that they had the head of a horse and the body of a human being. The epics describe them as heavenly musicians and even today, the locals celebrate over a hundred festivals every year, giving expression to both joy and sadness in song and dance form.

Due to its proximity to Tibet, the local population has been heavily influenced by Buddhism. Yet, both temples as well as monasteries coexist peacefully. The people are not too well off, and still rely on getting all their ailments cured but the local priest, making offerings they can ill afford. The medical practitioner, meanwhile, has little work. Quite often, neglect of easily treatable diseases like gastroenteritis and influenza leads to death here. Kalpa unfortunately, has a dark side.

On a clear sunny day, however, that is forgotten as Kalpa provides sights of the Himalayan range of mountains that are simply unforgettable. This range includes, besides Kinner Kailash, giant peaks like Pargial, 6791 mts, Jorkaden, 6473 mts and Raldang at 5499 mts. Kalpa is a haven of sorts for trekkers. Well-known are the routes from Kalpa to Chitkul via the villages of Thangi and Charang, then moving on to Sangla (2590 mts) before returning back to Kalpa via Karchham. All along the route, you will find enchanting mountains, life-giving rivers, rugged valleys, green meadows, chilkoza trees and the odd apricot field.

We weren't able to taste the apricots nor were we able to get some apricot oil to take home, since it was the beginning of the flowering season. Yet, we were able to carry home memories that will forever fill the dark spots in our daily lives. Dawn at Kalpa, the mesmerizing sight of the mountain range, including the best known of them all, Kinner Kailash. The sound of laughter that filled the courtyard at Uleytokpo; the family run lodge where we spent our nights; the smell of incense inside the dimly lit Buddhist monastry; the sight of thankas adorning the smoke-blackened walls, our walks through the untouched villages and most of all the serenity of Kalpa.