Vijay Raina
Travel Links; April 1999

Tucked away in the craggy folds of the Himalayas, is a land that few people know about. Fewer still have crossed this way, for it has been one of the world's best-kept secrets for thousands of years. Here, in the upper of the state of Himachal Pradesh in north of India, are valleys that until recently were forbidden lands. Today, after centuries of being shrouded in mystery, the veil has been lifted, allowing man a chance to commune silently with nature and with the gods.

For six months every year, the Himalayan valleys of Kinnaur and Spiti emerge from a thick cloak of snow, to reveal a different, secret world to man. Frozen glaciers and rivers start to flow with unseen fury, the earth turns into a swathe of colours, mountains unlock secret doorways, and local inhabitants come out in celebration of life itself. At dizzying heights of 2700m to 4200 m, the experience is almost surreal, when god and nature seem to lure man, perhaps even challenge him, to make the journey into their den of barren deserts, fierce mountains, turbulent rivers, dense forests, and moody skies. It is as though you are at the last frontier of civilization, and yet, you're not alone. This is where your journey of discovery in the lesser-known Himalayas begins, with Banjara Camp to show you the way....

The highlight of your Himalayan camping holiday is at Sangla, in the Kinnaur district of Himachal Pradesh. Just 230 kms from the former summer summer "raj" capital, Shimla, and a mere 30 kms from the Tibetan border, the Sangla Valley was closed to travelers until 1992 and even today, the 42 km by 1 km stretch at a height of over 2000 m is untouched by civilization.

Situated at an average altitude of 2,700 m, Sangla valley is a land where you can completely unwind and soak in all the joys of being in the Himalayas. Waking up in cosy Swiss-style tents, to the sounds of birds in the morning, you'll feel invigorated and ready to take on the world. Indeed there's plenty to do here! Climbing the meadows at Sangla is the best way to enjoy breathtaking views of the Himalayas surrounding you. Long walks are perfect for discovering the valley that bursts with an amazing variety of rare herbs and spices, exotic fruits and flowers, birds, butterflies and Himalayan wildlife. Sangla and all kannaur is dotted with apple orchards and boasts the best cider in the land.

The Baspa river gushes through gorges, 900 km deep in some places, breaking the silence of Sangla. The river abounds in Rainbow and Brown Trout and is an angler's delight. If you're feeling adventurous, you could try your hand at river-crossing or para-gliding, for that on top of the world feeling. Walk to the nearby villages of Batseri and Rakcham, and you'll meet the local inhabitants, Kinnauris, people who are said to be descendants of Kinners, demi-gods in the Hindu pantheon. Some families can actually trace their lineage back to the Pandavas of the Hindu epic, the Mahabharata. Honest, simple pastoral folk, and proud of their valley, the Kinnauris always extend a hearty welcome to visitors.

Back in the comfort of the camp in the evenings, there is the warmth of the bonfire, music and chatter to keep the cold away. At Sangla with Banjara Camp, you'll rarely ever miss home. In fact, you'll wish you could stay here forever.

Tabo, where time has stood still for 1,000 years.

Moving from Sangla, towards the Spiti valley, you step even closer to the Himalayas and the Indo-Tibetan border. And, farther away from civilization, the sudden and unexpected change of terrain is sure to leave you breathless and speechless. For, here at heights of over 3000 m, is an arid, cold and rocky desert where the only string of continuity is the fury of the rivers that crash and tumble over the barren faces of the mountains. Spiti, with its rock-hard desert mountains, torrential rivers and howling, cold winds is where only the god can live. The few villages are sparsely populated and the people who live here are simple, god-fearing folk who brave the elements in this lunar-like, seemingly inhospitable land.

At Banjara Camp, shivers of delight await you. The camp is situated at Tabo, where it seems time itself stopped over a 1000 year ago. The Tabo Gompa, or Buddhist monastery, is second in importance only to the Tholing Gompa in Tibet in the entire Himalayan region. The monastery celebrated a millennium in 1996, when the Dalai lama conducted a Kaalchakra (a ceremony of initiation, rejuvenation and prayer foe peace). Mountains and cliffs protect the centuries-old, inward looking culture of the region. You get a pretty good idea of this insular world, when you journey from Tabo to Kibber is another famous monastery, the Kee Gompa, located on top of a cliff... an absolute must-see.

At home in the Himalayas with Banjara Camps, Your holiday to the Himalayas and back promises to be a smooth experience, because you have the option of traveling with Banjara Camps all the way from Delhi and back. And, even in the lap of the Himalayas, Banjara Camps are sure to pamper you. To start with, the camps are run hands-on by Ajay Sud and Rajesh Ojha, who know the region as thoroughly as the palms of their hands.

No matter which of the camps you choose, each of the locations is a delight, offering you the most picturesque surroundings and the best views. When it comes to activities foe the day, there is plenty on offer-ranging from badminton, croquet, trekking and walks in some camps, to para-gliding, trout fishing and river crossing in others. And if you want to relax, there is always a hammock to laze around in. Every detail has been meticulously planned to ensure maximum living comfort. Transport, Swiss- style luxury tents, a choice of Indian, Chinese and Continental cuisine, snacks and beverages, Laundry...name it, and it's all here at Banjara Camps. While making a journey in these parts of the Himalayas, you couldn't be in better hands.

Banjara camp accommodation & facilities

The oom Tent: Your "room" is an independent, Swiss deluxe tent strong enough to keep the wind, weather and other intrusions where they belong outside! Inside, it is spacious, yet cosy, 12' by 12' room of cheerful tapestry. Roll-up meshed windows let in light. And soft, full-sized beds with fresh linen, all cotton comforters, bedside tables and water flasks create all the comforts of home.

The Dinning Tent: The big tent. Eating place. Meeting place. Happening place. Here, generous table buffet spreads are laid out at breakfast, lunch and dinner. Indian, Chinese and Continental menus are decided daily. And the range and abilities of the chef will leave you asking for more.

Recreation Tent: Here, you'll find indoor and outdoor games and a small interesting library. And no, no invasion of the satellite TV cult! A selection of video movies is a welcome diversion.

Bathroom Tent: Yes, each room has an attached " loo" tent, with taps for running water and commodes. Hot water is provided from a central boiler. And soap, toilet paper and towels are on the house.

Other Facilities: A laundry room with a washing machine and an iron is available for your use. A subterranean mountain spring provides pure mineral water for the camp. Basic first aid and emergency supplies (forgot your toothbrush?) are also available at the Camp. A general physician is on call. So, enjoy the million joys of the great outdoors in the Himalayas. Trekking paths are well defined and unfrequented, in these parts. Equipment and porters can be arranged. And yes, the Baspa river at Sangla is always teeming with trout!