Sumitra Senapathy
The Statesman; 16th March 2001

Sangla, in Himachal Pradesh, is the ideal place for a quiet summer holiday.

If you're feeling hot under collar just imagining the mayhem, here's the good news: there are still a few places left where you can enjoy the tranquility of the highlands and communion with nature without fear of your personal space being rudely violated or even having to compromise on basic amenities. This terrific bolt-hole is Sangla Valley. Situated at an elevation of about 10,000 feet, this is the place where Himachal greets Tibet. Forbidden territory virtually from Independence until 1992 because of its close proximity to the Chinese border (30 km away), the sleepy inner line valley is still largely populated by tribals and the occasional jawan of the Indo-Tibetan Border Police. But you are unlikely to stumble upon either at the Banjara Camp, a luxury tent resort that nestles on the banks of Baspa river in the backdrop of some dramatic peaks.

Getting to this Shangri-La is half the fun. Your best bet is by road via Shimla, 230 km away. The route winds past some stark rugged hills and dense forests and once you cross Narkhanda, the turbulent Sutlej keeps you company until past Rampur Bashir. Furthr on, Sarahan, at 7500 feet could be an enchanting overnight halt, enroute to Sangla Valley, full of apple, plum and peach orchards. The ancient Bhima Kali temple, with its magnificent architecture is situated here.

At Sangla, nature is the same yet different with the dawn of each day. For the briefest of moments, you imagine you're dreaming then you lie back once more on the hillock, sipping apple wine, and you realize, that dreams can come true. If you have been seeking that elusive combination of a pure nature destination where you can relax and where there is great beauty to see and explore, besides being at an affordable tariff, then Sangla is for you. Spend the days breathing the sweet mountain air in a rejuvenating atmosphere, relaxing by the riverside or walking thr
ugh nearby meadows and valleys.

Sangla is the ideal hill get-a-way, to escape the dust and grime of the plains, to fish in a gurgling stream, watch snowcapped peaks in the distance blending with the sky. Rarely, have the paths of God and man crossed each other, as in this valley of the Himalayas. Tucked away in the craggy folds of the Himalayas, Sangla is a land that few people know about. Fewer still have crossed this way, for it has been one of the world's best-kept secrets for thousands of years. Today, after centuries of being shrouded in mystery, the veil has been lifted, allowing you a chance to commune wilently with nature and with the Gods. Do it differently and decide to go off the beaten track to the Banjara Campsite in Sangla Valley.

The picturesque Sangla Valley is no less charming and peaceful than Pahalgam both are situated on riverbanks. Sangla lies on the banks of the enchanting Baspa River in Kinnaur district. Ringed by the high Dhauladhar ranges, Kinnaur lies on the ancient trade route, the old Hindustan-Tibet road linking India with Tibet.

The camp site has been picked carefully, and the thoughtfulness of the facilites, indeed take you by surprise. The snug, spacious 12x12 well-furnished Swiss Cottage tents even have an uninterrupted power supply and roll-up meshed windows to let in light. Meals are always served outdoors, with a gerous helping of sunlight, or by the side of a roaring bonfire, to keep you snug and warm.

But, this can also be a place for action. Indeed there is plenty to do here! Climbing the meadows at Sangla is the best way to melt the stress and enjoy breathtaking view of the Himalayas. Long walks are perfect for discovering the valley that bursts with an amazing variety of rare herbs and spices, exotic fruits and flowers, birds, butterflies and Himalayan wildlife. All of Kinnaur is dotted with apple orchards and the region boasts the best cider in the land. The Baspa River gushes through gorges, 900m deep in some places, breaking the quiet and silence of the valley. The river abounds in Rainbow and Brown Trout and is an angler's delight. If you're feeling adventurous, you could try your hand at river-crossing, for that on top of the world feeling. You can also walk to the nearby villages of Batseri and Rakcham, where you'll meet the local inhabitants.

If one is energetic, one can trek to some interesting places, using the Banjara Camp as a base. Trekking buffs can chart out a course around Kinner Kailash, the mythical abode of Lord Shiva, to Sarahan or to a number of passes such as the Pin Parbati or Kaza. The 1000 year-old Rekong Peo known for the chilgoza forests, the Nako Lake and the Kalpa Valley are just 55km away and definitely worth a visit.

Some 25 km from Sangla at a height of 12,000 feet lies the quaint village of Chitkul with a population of 464 people. This is the last Indian village before Tibet. Close on hand are the snow peaks, dark green forests and the Baspa River flowing like molten silver onto Tibet, which lies another 30 km away.

Sangla could keep you spellbound for days with its spectacular scenery. Don't forget to pick up a basket of Kinnauri apples on your way back.