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Sumitra Senapati
Hindustan Times
Situated at the Indo-Tibetan border, Sangla Valley is
one of the world's best-kept secrets. Discover the
valley that will keep you enthralled for days with its
spectacular scenery.
A terrific bolthole is Sangla Valley. Situated at an
elevation of about 10,000 ft, this is the place where
Himachal greets Tibet. Forbidden territory virtually
from Independence up until 1992 because of its close
proximity to the Chinese Border (30km away), the
sleepy inner line valley is still largely populated by
tribals and the occasional jawan of the Indo-Tibetan
Border police. But you are unlikely to stumble upon
either at the Banjara Camp, a luxury tent resort that
nestles on the banks of the Baspa river in the
backdrop of some dramatic peaks.
Getting to this Shangrila-La is half the fun. Your
best bet is by road, via Shimla, 230km away. The route
winds past some stark rugged hills and dense forests
and once you cross Narkanda, the turbulent Sutlej
keeps you company until past Rampur.
Sangla is the ideal hill getaway, to escape the dust
and grime of the plains, to fish in a gurgling stream,
watch snow-capped peaks in the distance blending with
the sky. Rarely have the paths of God and man crossed
each other, as in this valley of Himalayas. Tucked
away in the craggy folds of the Himalayas, Sangla is a
land that few people know about. Fewer still have
crossed this way, for it has been one of the world's
best kept secrets for thousands of years.
Today, after centuries of being shrouded in mystery,
the veil has been lifted, allowing you a chance to
commune silently with nature and with the gods. Do it
differently and decide to go off the beaten track to
the Banjara Campsite in Sangla Valley.
The picturesque Sangla Valley is no less charming and
peaceful than Pahalgam-both are situated on river
banks. Sangla lies on the banks of the enchanting
Baspa river in Kinnaur District. Ringed by the high
Dhauladhar ranges, Kinnaur lies on the ancient trade
route, the old Hindustan - Tibet road linking India
with Tibet.
The Campsite has been picked carefully, and the
thoughtfulness of the facilities, indeed take you by
surprise. The snug spacious 12ft furnished Swiss
Cottage tents even have an uninterrupted power supply
and roll - up meshed widows to let in light. Meals are
always served outdoor, with a generous helping of
sunlight, or by the side of a roaring bonfire, to keep
you snug and warm.
Designed with the family in mind the Camp also boasts
of cozy recreation tent with awell-stocked library,
bur no television. Every detail has been meticulously
planned to ensure maximum living comfort. And if you
want to relax, there is always a hammock to laze
around in.
But this can also be a place for action. Indeed, there
is plenty to do here! Climbing the meadows at Sangla
is the best way to melt the stress and enjoy
breathtaking views of the Himalayas.
Long walks are perfect for discovering the valley that
bursts with an amazing variety of rare herbs and
spices, exotic flowers and fruits, birds, butterflies
and the Himalayan wildlife.
All of Kinnaur is dotted with apple orchards and the
region boasts the best cider in the land. The Baspa
river gushes through gorges, 900 metres deep in some
places, breaking the silence of the valley. The river
abounds in Rainbow and Brown Trout and is an angler's
delight. If you're feeling adventurous, you could try
your hand at river crossing.
You can also walk to the nearby villages of Batseri
and Rakcham. Where you'll meet the local
inhabitants-Honest, simple pastoral folk, proud of
their valley.
If you are energetic, you can trek to some interesting
places, using the Banjara Camp as base. Trekking buffs
can chart out of course around Kinner Kailash, the
mythical abode of Lord Shiva, to Sarahan or to a
number of passes such as the Pin Parbati or Kaza.
The 1000 years Reckong Peo known for the Chilgoza
forests, the Nako Lake and Kalpa Valley are just 55 km
away and definitely worth a visit.
Some 25 km from Sangla at a height of 12,000 ft lies
the quaint village of Chitkul with a population of 464
people. This is the last Indian village before Tibet.
Close on hand are the snow peaks, dark green forests
and the Baspa river flowing like molten silver on to
Tibet, which lies another 30 Km away.
Back in the comfort of the Camp in the evenings, there
is warmth of the bonfire, music and chatter to keep
you spellbound for days on end with its spectacular
scenery. Don't forget to pick up a basket of Kinnauri
apples on your way back.
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