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DRIVES AND PLACES TO VISIT
MANALI - LEH JEEP SAFARI
This stunning safari begins in Manali and continues for
nearly 500 km across the high Himalayas to Leh, the
capital of Ladakh. This road, used primarily for military
purposes was opened to general public only recently. Since
then we have designed our own tours to offer people
maximum enjoyment and many opportunities for photography.
From the passes you can see the mountain ranges sweep into
the far distance. The strong sunlight illuminates the
yellow and red rocks. The snow- capped peaks with a clear
blue- sky backdrop set beside gorges, canyons and desert,
offer a wonderful and pure environment for the Kyang (wild
horse), wolf, mountain hare, and the rare Himalayan Lynx.
Hardy shrubs and brightly colored flowers carpet the
plateau areas. Herds of Yak, goat and sheep wander high
pastures in search of food accompanied by exotically
dressed nomads sporting pigtails, the women folk wearing
headdresses of Turquoise, Amber, Silver, Pearls and Gold.
You will cross four high passes along the way - Rohtang
Pass (13,050'), Baralacha Pass (16,000'), Lachalungla
(16,616') and Taglang la (17,582'), so one must be aware
of the altitude and its effects. We pay special attention
to comfort and safety, providing superior camping
facilities and tasty food when we stopover in remote
places. We offer deluxe as well as comfortable, family run
hotels in Manali and Leh. Spend some time in Leh
sightseeing and exploring the bazaars and nearby Buddhist
monasteries of Hemis and Stok and it is again time to
journey out. The carefully planned daily driving stages
allow plenty of time for sightseeing, photography and
stretching the legs. However, if you are even slightly
concerned about your health and your ability to stay
between 11,000' to 15,000' for around 12 days, it is
advisable to see your medical adviser before setting out
for the journey.
MONASTERIES IN AND AROUND LEH
Hemis Gompa
The Hemis Gompa is the biggest monastery in Ladakh.
Located 45 Km to the south of Leh, Hemis Gompa was built
in 1630 and houses monks of the Brokpa or Red Hat sect.
Visitors can see beautiful frescoes (paintings) on the
walls and the largest Thangka painting in Ladakh, which is
over 12 m in length. The Hemis Gompa is famous for its
annual Tse Chu Festival held in June-July, which is
characterized by colorful masked dances. The festival
commemorates the anniversary of Padmasambhava, the founder
of Tibetan Buddhism. Dancers wearing brightly colored
masks that represent good and evil characters in Mahayana
Buddhism, enact an age-old tale of the victory of good
over evil. The Hemis Festival also includes a vibrant
bazaar where craftsmen sell handcrafted items.
Shanti Stupa
The Shanti Stupa is an impressive white-domed structure in
Changspa that is beautifully illuminated at night. It was
built by a Japanese Buddhist organization to commemorate
2500 years of Buddhism and to promote World Peace. The
Shanti Stupa was inaugurated by His Holiness the Dalai
Lama in 1985. You can approach the monastery by a steep
flight of steps or by a 3 Km route from the Fort Road. The
views of the sunset and sunrise from the Shanti Stupa are
spectacular.
Sankar Gompa
Situated 2 Km North of the city center, the Sankar Gompa
houses monks of the Gelukpa or Yellow Hat order. It has a
grand image of Avalokiteshvara (The Buddhist deity of
compassion) who is depicted with 1,000 heads and 1,000
arms.
Leh Palace
The Leh Palace is a smaller version of the Potala Palace
in Lhasa, the capital of Tibet. Built in the 17th century
for King Singge Namgyal, the Leh Palace was the residence
of the Ladakhi royal family till they were sent into exile
in Stok in the 1830s. Now undergoing reconstruction the
Leh Palace also houses the Ladakh office of the
archeological conservation organization of the Indian
Government.
Stok Palace
The Stok Palace is located on a glacial deposit of pebbles
and overlooks fields of barley grown on terraces on the
mountains. Standing four storeys tall, the Stok Palace was
the official residence of the royal family of Ladakh and
was constructed in 1814 by Ladakh's last ruler. The museum
at the Stok Palace has an intriguing collection of
Buddhist art, weapons, jewellery and artifacts including thangkas painted with colors derived from crushed precious
stones. Also on display are the ceremonial headdresses or
'peraks' of the erstwhile rulers of Ladakh. These
headdresses are decorated with turquoise, lapis lazuli and
coral and gold, making them an exotic sight.
Lamayuru Monastery
The Lamayuru monastery is located on a high rocky outcrop,
which overlooks a valley and the village of Lamayuru, 125
Km west of Leh. It is also called the Yung Drung or
Swastika monastery and its stunning location makes this
monastery a must visit on a tour to Ladakh. The monastery
has a many Thangka paintings in its main hall. The annual
festival of Lamayuru Monastery is held every summer on the
28th and 29th days, of the 2nd month of the Tibetan
Buddhist calendar.
Shey Monastery
Situated on a hillock 15 km south of Leh, Shey Gompa was
previously the summer palace of the Ladakhi kings. A
prince of Ladakh installed the 12 m tall gold-plated
copper statue of Sakyamuni Buddha, which can be seen here.
The Shey Gompa celebrates its annual festival on the 30th
day of the 1st month of the Tibetan Buddhist calendar.
Alchi Gompa
The Alchi Gompa is situated on the bank of the River Indus
and is easily accessible since it is the only Gompa in
Ladakh, which is located on flat ground. Founded by
Ringchen Zangpo, the Great Translator, the Alchi Gompa
displays a Kashmiri influence in its art and architecture.
Within the monastery you can see many beautiful images of
Buddha. Photography is not permitted within the Alchi
Monastery.
Likir Monastery
The Likir Monastery is also called the Klu-Kkhjil or
"water spirits" gompa and is situated 52 Km from Leh.
Built over an earlier Gompa burnt down in the 15th
century, the present Gompa is an 18th century construction
and houses monks of the Gyalukpa sect. The Likir monastery
has a rich collection of paintings, robes and artifacts.
The Likir Festival is held from the 17th to 19th of the
12th month of the Tibetan Buddhist calendar.
Spituk Monastery
The Spituk Gompa is perched on a high hill overlooking the
Indus river about 18 Km from Leh. Rinchen Zangpo the Great
Translator who helped spread Buddhism in Ladakh named the
monastery. The Spituk monastery
is known for its collection of Buddhist artifacts and for
the Spituk festival held from the 17th to 19th days of the
11th month of the Buddhist calendar. Further up the hill
is a Mahakal Temple, where a fearsome image of
Vajrabhairava is unveiled once a year at its annual
festival.
Thiksey Monastery
The Thiksey monastery located 17 Km from Leh is 12 storeys
high and has many statues of Buddha, a pillar inscribed
with Buddhist teachings, a 15 m high seated Maitreya
Buddha in the main prayer hall, and a vast collection of
Buddhist art. Home to monks of the Gelukpa order the
Thiksey monastery is known for its annual festival held
from the 17th to 19th day of the 12th month of the Tibetan
Buddhist calendar.
NUBRA VALLEY
In the days of yore, the fertile Valley of Nubra formed a
part of the overland route between Tibet and Turkestan.
Once dotted with garlands of camel and yak caravans, this
Silk Route glen is also known as the 'Valley of Flowers'
of Ladakh, and is amongst the greenest valleys in the
region - ideal for your holiday break.
The romance of the Silk Route still hangs in the air as
you cross the formidable Khardung La - The highest 'motorable'
pass on the planet- which connects Leh and the Nubra
Valley. The road from Leh rises steeply to meet Khardung
La and then dramatically plunges into a whirlpool of bends
and turns to gradually unfold itself along the rushing
Shyok and the Nubra Rivers.
The Scenic Splendor
One can understand why anyone would envy this flowering
glen. During early summer, Nubra is clad in endless bushes
of yellow and pink wild roses, and once the valley is
through with the season of roses around August, a carpet
of wild lavender lies gently on it. Nubra is also a
relatively warmer valley in Ladakh, and the comparatively
benign climate helps yield better crops and fruits, making
Nubra the ‘Ldumra’, or orchard of Ladakh.
Diskit Village
The Diskit Village is located slightly off the little
hamlet of Khalsar. Dotted with apricot plantations, Diskit
is one of the largest villages in the region and home to
the 350 year-old Diskit Gompa– the oldest, and the largest
monastery in the Nubra Valley. Diskit has a number of
rudimentary hotels and guest houses, with an odd store
here and there. On your Ladakh holidays it is best to
carry ample supplies with you when you leave Leh as the
regions outside of Leh have little to offer besides the
very basic. The road connecting Diskit with the quaint
little Hunder Village winds through a gorgeous stretch of
sand dunes. You could spend a pleasant evening around
these natural marvels that border a stream, and have
snow-capped peaks for a backdrop. Keep your eyes open for
the double-humped camels and Seabuckthorn forest! Hunder
also has some basic accommodation for travelers. The
Hunder Gompa has some old frescos and a statue of Buddha.
The monastery is also the best place in the village for a
view of the dipping sun.
The Samtanling Gompa
The Samtanling Gompa at the relatively bigger Sumur
Village is definitely worth a visit, and houses a fine
collection of idols, frescos and Tangkhas (painted and
embroidered scrolls). Sumur too offers basic holiday
accommodations. A few days spent in this busy little
village can be a very pleasant experience. This area is
also famous for its hot water Sulphur springs. The waters
of the spring at the village of Panamik - the last
destination travelers are permitted to travel to in Nubra
beyond which falls the Siachen Glacier- are believed to
have certain medicinal qualities that cure a number of
ailments.
If you are in the mood for yet another monastery, you can
walk to the Elsa Gompa that is over
250 years old.
PANGONG TSO
An incredible drive from Leh takes the visitor past the
picturesque villages of Shey and Thikse, and turns off the
Indus valley by the side valley of Chemrey and Sakti. The
Ladakh range is crossed by the Chang-la (18,000 ft/ 5,475
m) which despite its great elevation is one of the easier
passes in Ladakh remaining open for much of the year even
in winter, apart from periods of actual snowfall. Tangse,
just beyond the foot of the pass, has an ancient temple.
However, the main attraction of this circuit is the
Pangong Lake, situated at 14,000 feet (4,267 m). A long
narrow basin of inland drainage, hardly six to seven
kilometers at its widest point up till which foreign
tourists are permitted, is only some seven km along the
southern shore from the head of the lake, but it affords
spectacular views of the mountains of the Changchenmo
range to the north, their reflection shimmering in the
ever changing blues and greens of the lakes brackish
water. The lake is about 70 kms long 3/4th of which is
inaccessible since that lies in China. Above Spangmik are
the glacier and snow-capped peaks of the Pangong range.
Spangmik and a scattering of other tiny villages along the
lakes southern shore are the summer homes of a scanty
population of Chang-pas, the nomadic people of Tibet and
south-east Ladakh. The Pangong Chang-pa cultivate sparse
crops of barley and peas in summer. In winter they unfold
their tents (Rebo) and take their flocks of sheep and
pashmina goats out to the distant pastures.
TSO MORIRI LAKE
A drive to the lake is through a landscape that has to be
seen to be believed. This area called Rupshu is traversed
by the Manali Leh road and contains the drainage basins of
Tso Moriri and other lakes. Here, the Zanskar range is
transformed into a bare rolling many-hued hills divided by
open high altitude valleys scoured by dust-devils. It is a
moonscape quite unlike any other in Ladakh - or elsewhere
in India. The first circuit follows the Manali road over
the Taglang-la as far as Debring, a Chang-pa camping
place. From here it strikes off east on a rough track
across the basin of the twin lakes Startsapuk-Tso (Fresh
water) and the Tso-kar (Salt Water), over the Polokangka-la
(About 16,500 feet / 5030 M) to Sumdo near the site of old
Sulphur mines in the Puga Valley, then over a
roller-coaster track to the head of the Tso-Moriri and on
to Korzok, a quarter of the way along the lake's 20-km
length.
The alternative route, instead of leaving the Indus at
Upshi, carries on up the river, as it snakes its way
through a gorge between the Ladakh and Zanskar ranges, to
the village of Chumathang, where you’ll find a hot spring.
At Mahe, some 17 km further, the road crosses from the
north to the south bank of the river by a bridge; it then
follows the Puga stream up to join the first circuit at
Sumdo.
Korzok is situated at 15000 ft. (4572 M) with its dozen or
so houses and its Gompa appearing like a mirage among the
barren hills, this is the only permanent settlement in
Rupshu valley, a region otherwise inhabited only by
nomadic Chang-pa herds’ people. The Chang-pa live in tents
all the year round, moving in accordance with an
old-established annual routine between the pastures. The
few barley fields at Korzok must be among the highest
cultivation anywhere in the world, but there is no
guarantee that the crop will ripen every year.
Amazingly, even Rupshu's bare hills support a sparse
population of wildlife, and the animal most likely to be
spotted is the Kyang, the wild ass of the Ladakh and Tibet
plateau. More plentiful are marmots (ubiquitous on
mountain slopes all over Ladakh), hares and an unusual
tail-less rat. The lakes are breeding-grounds for numerous
species of birds. Chief among them are the Bar-headed
Geese found in great number on the Tso-moriri, the Great
Crested Grebe, the Brahmini duck (ruddy sheldrake) and the
Brown-headed Gull.
ZANSKAR
Zanskar - a sub district of Kargil district lies south of Leh with its administrative centre at Padum. Zanskar,
together with the neighbouring region of Ladakh, formerly
belonged to Guge or Western Tibet.
Just 20 kms southeast of Rangdum in Suru Valley stands the
Penzi la watershed across which lies Zangskar, the most
isolated of all the trans-Himalayan valleys. The Penzi La
Top (4401M) is a picturesque tableland adorned with two
small alpine lakes and surrounded by snow-covered peaks.
As the Zangskar road winds down the steep slopes of the
watershed to the head of the Stod Valley, one of
Zagnskar's main tributary valleys, the "Drang-Drung"
glacier looms into full view. A long and winding river of
ice and snow, the "Drang-Drung" is perhaps the largest
glacier in Ladakh, outside the Siachen formation. It is
from this glacier that the Stod or Doda River, the main
tributary of River Zangskar, rise.
Zanskar, spread over an area of 5000 sq. kms., comprises a
tri-armed valley system lying between the Great Himalayan
Range and the Zangskar mountains. It is mainly along the
course of this valley system that the mainly Buddhist
population live. They could be 10,000 people in all. The
area remains inaccessible for nearly 8 months a year due
to heavy snowfall resulting in closure of all the access
passes, including the Penzi-la. This geographical
isolation together with the esoteric nature of Buddhism
practiced here has enabled its inhabitants to preserve and
perpetuate their cultural identity. Today, Zangskar has
the distinction of being the least interfered with
microcosms of Ladakh and one of the last few surviving
cultural satellites of Tibet. Closer observation of the
living conditions evokes admiration for a people who have
learnt to live in perfect harmony with the unique
environment. Within the mountain ramparts of this lost
Shangri-La stand a number of ancient yet active monastic
establishments.
Trekking is the best method to gain full access to Zanskar,
although one may hire a jeep to drive from Kargil to Padum
over the Pensi-La. The most popular trekking routes to
enter Zanskar by foot are the one leading from Darcha or
Sarchu (on the Manali-Leh road) to Padum and the one from
Lamayuru (on the Srinagar-Leh road) to Padum. Both routes
take about ten days to complete.
From Padum, the administrative capital of Zanskar, one can
take the Padum-Stongdey-Zangla-Karsha-Padum round trip,
which covers most of the cultural sites of Zanskar.
Tourism is probably the major disruption that Zanskar has
experienced during recent times. The opening of this
region to foreigners has brought benefits such as the
financing of schools and the restoration of monasteries
and roads, but has also taken its toll on this fragile
mountain environment and its population.
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